It was tough to leave Lusaka and the Western comforts we had found at our hosts' for a couple of nights, the prospect of Livingstone, the Zambezi and Victoria Falls was extremely enticing for us so we carried on. It was 5 days of cycling to Livingstone from Lusaka and we are pleased to report there was no punctures in the 500+km. Hallelujah! The first day from Lusaka was a quick, short downhill ride to Kafue. We had read somewhere online that a restuarant just near the bridge offered camping so we set our sights there. Upon arriving and asking if we could camp the night, we were met with perpexled looks from the manager. However, she soon swung into gear and arranged for us to sleep on the floor of a half built conference room they were building. We ended up with a private room (of sorts) with waterfront views of croc and hippo infested waters!
The next day we encountered some terrible roads. Though the road from Lusaka to Livingstone was very busy with many trucks, including all of those transporting ore from the copper fields down to South Africa using this route, the first 70km leaving Kafue was really bad. Massive pot holes strode across the road with long sections of road that were just gravelly bumps and mounds. This obstacle course of craters caused the trucks to zig-zag across either lane for safe passage. After our experience with punctures last week, this was the last thing we needed but the bikes held up well and we avoided the trucks successfully.
We later learnt that the reason that this stretch of road was so badly maintained (i.e. not at all!) is that the locals in this district have a history of voting for the opposition come election time. As a way to punish, or attempt to persuade them to vote differently in future, the road has been left in disrepair so that every rainy season the tarmac washes away and the lorries chew up whatever is left. The following 3 days getting to Livingstone were thankfully fast and flat. We were able to average speeds well above 25km/hr and stayed in a couple of larger towns with nice big supermarkets to get our food. We even had the pleasure of a TV in a couple of spots and spent our daily dose of laying down time in front of great films like: The Spy Next Door (A Jackie Chan classic...)
Our last night before Livingstone was less comfortable however, staying in a small village called Zimba where the only food we could find was some less than delicious nshima and vegetables. We had no running water in our room either, so bucket showers and bucket toilet flushes were required. Livingstone couldn't come soon enough. And it delivered. In so many ways. We asked Far & Wild where they thought we should stay, and they quickly arranged a few nights at Thorntree River Lodge. As soon as we arrived, we could see this was a once in a lifetime spot. It was like something out of a fairytale, and certainly somewhere beyond our wildest dreams.
The lodge was set right on the banks of the 'mighty' Zambezi and our first view of the river was magnificent. The river was at near peak and stretched hundreds of metres wide with rapids and islands throughout. When we were shown our rooms, our minds were even more blown. A private pool! A stocked mini bar all included! Both an indoor and outdoor shower! With running hot and cold water!
We settled in, grabbed a beer from our fridge (and a few cocktails from the main bar later before dinner - all included), set out in our private deck watching the hippos and wondered how we got so lucky.
Across our three nights at Thorntree (it was originally going to be two but we couldn't bear to leave had so to extend), we were kept busy with activities. We got out on the river four times - a sundowner, a mid morning fish, a leisurely canoe downstream (with some surprisingly tough rapids and upstream momemts) and another fish at sunrise. Unfortunately no fish were caught (Charlie managed to catch an Acacia but that doesn't count).
Whilst on our sundowner boat ride on our very first night we saw an extraordinary sight - a family of six elephants swimming across the high waters to get to the next island and then into mainland Zambia.
As part of another evening activity we joined rangers who are tasked with tracking and protecting a family of white rhinos. On our walk we learned about the continuing threat of poachers and the need for round the clock rhino monitoring. When we arrived, we were met with 3 wild rhinos, 2 females and a baby.
Of course a big highlight was going to see one of the natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. And it was stunning. With the water in the Zambezi so high, the falls were thunderous and drenched us from head to toe with the mist rising hundreds of metres from the cascading bottom. It was enough to break the camera underneath the poncho we were given, (but 24 hours of sitting in rice fixed thst up). It is easy to see how such an epic force of nature acquires the name, the smoke that thunders.
And then on our the way back, a game drive back to the lodge through the national park where we spotted our first zebra, wildebeest and a close up giraffe.
Our last night at the lodge we were treated to a big braii (BBQ). The chef was both an excellent BBQ-er (high praise from an Australian) and entertaining. The whole evening was filled with laughs and jokes, mostly at Charlie's expense. It was a delicious last dinner and left us feeling a bit sick from eating too much T-Bone, chicken skewers, prawns and boerwors sausage. All washed down with yet another perfectly paired South Africa red wine. And all worth it.
It is sad to leave the never-again level of luxury we experienced, but Botswana is calling. It will be an interesting change there, as we know that the density of wild animals is much higher and the density of humans much lower. That will mean more preparation, taking a lot more water and food with us as villages are few and far between, as well as keeping an eye out for animals on the side of the road. Our first 3 days will be on the "Elephant Highway", and will include a 150km day that has no villages or other accomodation options in between our start and end.
***THREE GREAT REASONS TO DONATE*** 1. You’re inspired/impressed/shocked at our peddling skills and think that climbing the equivalent of Everest over three times since we set off and conquering 3,700km in 8 weeks deserves a penny or two; 2. You’ve read our blogs on the African charity partners, and agree that the work they do is incredible and that they deserve as much funding and support as possible; 3. You want to give us the energy to cycle away from the elephants (and lions) across the 300km of the Elephant Highway
Do a great thing, hit up this link and support The Egmont Trust https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/equatortocape
