Anyone following our updates on Instagram this last week may be wondering if we've been doing any cycling at all lately. After a big first month cycling through Kenya and Tanzania where we really got through the miles, we've treated ourselves a little on the banks of Lake Malawi this week with some extra non-cycling days. We figure we won't get another opportunity to be by the water for the rest of the trip so we should make the most of it. Despite this, our week did start off with a tough day of climbing with our highest single mountain climbed of the trip so far (613m elevation all up one hill with no respite) as we climbed away from the lake and into higher country. Luckily, we were well prepared after the previous night patching up a few punctures that we had picked up. Despite this being something we are skilled up for thanks to our training at Cytech, the security guards at our camp in Chitimba couldn't help but getting involved and then taking over. As we left our campsite the next morning, we even got a helping hand from a dozen local children chaperoning us to the main road. Cycling in Malawi is a way of life and bikes are much more common than cars and even serve as taxis between villages.
The ride took us to Rhumpi, where Charlie took the opportunity to get a hair cut from a local moustached barber before we visited one of The Egmont Trust's partners at Life Concern Organisation (separate blog to come).
From Rhumpi, we cycled towards Nkhata Bay. Lunch on this day took us to Mzuzu, one of Malawi's larger cities. We picked up some spare screws for our cleated shoes after Naomi's had worn down and were continually getting looser. A rare big supermarket was also here, and we even found some Lindt Dark Chocolate for the dairy-free one amongst us. After a stop off at Joys (infamous amongst expats for a little Korean delight and break from nsima and dry chicken) we head off for a beautiful downhill stretch out of Mzuzu.
Reaching Nkhata Bay, we arrived at our accomodation Mayoka Village. We had heard a lot of good things about this place, and it didn't let us down with rooms right next to the water and a whole heap of activities such as paddle boarding, snorkelling and kayaking on offer. We stayed two nights here, treating ourselves to a non cycle day playing in the lake and sunshine at a picturesque spot looking out over the bay and watching the lizards scramble over the rocks at the waters edge.
A short cycle to Chintheche followed and we arrived at the beautiful Chintheche Inn (http://cawsmw.com/index.php/lodges/chintheche). This was a real piece of luxury for us with the best beach we have come across in Malawi. The lodge has 300m of white sand, and we have enjoyed it almost all to ourselves, a swimming pool, big chalets with huge windows and right on the beach. The very kind and helpful staff greeted us with a personalised chalkboard message and the most refreshing iced tea we’ve ever tasted. We have even enjoyed a couple of fancy bath robes to lounge around in. We fed on some delicious local fish at the restaurant, sipped on some locally brewed beers and wondered how we got so lucky to be staying here.
This week has really felt like a holiday in Malawi and we are feeling refreshed and ready to get back on the bike. We still have a few more days cycling south along the lake’s edge, before turning west and heading towards Zambia where we anticipate some long and hard days in the saddle. Now I’m going to go back to my sunny beach spot and beer and soak up all the chilled out vibes this beautiful spot has to offer.
